A+A FEMME - Women A/W 2021.2022
The rules that used to define womanhood will no longer hold. Acting like a lady can mean displaying ambition, competing in business or sport, or breaking barriers in science or politics. Fighting like a girl now means speaking truth to power, as in leading a worldwide charge against climate change. These shifts have been evolving for decades, sometimes moving forward, sometimes slipping back. But now, in a new era, a new decade and a new season, it seems right to give this book a new name — “Femme”.
“Femme” simply means “woman” in French. And what does it mean to be a woman today? Even in an age where gender identity is understood as a construct, there is still such a thing as expressing womanhood or femininity in the action or gestures women make and the clothes they wear. It’s a feeling of sensuality. An expression of independence. It’s about embracing those elements that feel right and rejecting those that seem outdated.
KEY THEMES OF THE SEASON
1. WINTER SUN
Where the sunshine pours in, warming plush surfaces, highlighting molded shapes, fading into a delicate glow. The Danish concept of “Hygge” continues to resonate. In uncertain times there is a longing for comfort, convivial company, and cozy surroundings. Clothing becomes a place of refuge, providing a feeling of security and wellbeing.
SIlhouettes: dimensional sweaters, big coats easy/comfy pants, loungewear outfits, boxy jackets, A-line skirts, silky vintage-style blouses.
Fabrics: tweeds, wool lace, silk, leather, sturdy cotton, fleece, shearling.
Prints: uneven stripes, deco geometry, jacquard prints, zigzags, antique botanical prints.
colors: golden camel, calm beige, peach tones, rosy pink.
2. EXEC NOMAD
Working today can happen anywhere; planes, trains, offices, smartphone or simply at home. Exploring the new career-wear. With shared workspaces, satellite offices, flexible hours, and the gig economy. The work environment has changed, and with that, the way to dress. These are the clothes that feel powerful while being comfortable, that travel well and that fit almost any occasion.
SIlhouettes: Oversized jackets or coats, gender-fluid trousers ( wide-legged or pegged) belts, reworked suiting, sleeveless tops, shore jackets, shirtdresses, cargos, XL proportions
Fabrics: shirting fabrics, lux jerseys, men's fabrics (pinstriped, herringbones & pied de poule), silk and cotton, blazers and slim skirts.
Prints: fewer prints, more plains. It's more about the fabric and versatility. Classic stripes and micro geometries.
Colors: denim blue to classic blue, green cargo, soft fuchsia, light and dark greys.
3.TOWN & COUNTRY
Country-life is a state of mind. Season specific dressing as opposed to seasonless. It's about celebrating the dropping temperatures. These are the clothes that work for a week or a weekend, in the city or the suburbs. Utility details and sturdy fabrics bring a sense of practicality. It's about timeless plaids like buffalo checks, cut into new shapes. Romantic dresses in autumnal colors hint at the winter holidays.
SIlhouettes: 50-60-70's inspiration with natural shoulders, and nipped-in waist. A-line midi skirts, flare leg pants, cropped blouson jackets, cargo pockets, snaps and zips, utilitarian capes.
Fabrics: canvas, blanket plaids, suedes, weather-proof nylons, updated-tweeds, patent leather, chunky knits.
Prints: retro-inspired prints, checks in all shapes and sizes, pied de poule, tie-dyes dip-dyes, tapestry prints
Colors: Earthy colors, with a mix of greens, vintage orange, red and ash rose.
4.NEO NOIR
Inspired by the femme fatale heroines of Noir films, the powerful yet vulnerable women who smolder in hourglass silhouettes and strong shoulders and with glimmering sparkle making for a modern mystery, allure, and seduction.
SIlhouettes: Shiny black trenchcoats, snug sweaters, shapely jackets, wiggle skirts, slim pants exposed lingerie.
Fabrics: leather whether real or fake, velvets, knits and jerseys, sheer fabrics, lace.
Prints: Poca-dots, prince of whale checks, houndstooth, cascades of crystals and ornamental embellishments.
Colors: Black, shades of grey, fire red, soft pink, a hazel blue, mustard green
5.TEA ROOM
A romantic bohemian mood expressed in shades of elegant and mysterious colors. Off-beat pieces celebrating individuality. A one-of-a-kind aesthetic marches to a different drum with mixed prints, antique fabrics, and global treasures, that appeal to the connoisseur, lasting beyond trends to become collectibles. Eccentric meets aristocratic for a lifestyle that embraces freedom and creativity along with comfort and affluence.
SIlhouettes: printed dresses, ruffle blouses, fluid or pleated skirts, wide pants,
Fabrics: shiny silks, velvets or metallics, chiffon, home furnishing fabrics, lace.
Prints: paisleys, mosaic motifs, ikats, crochets, blurry maxi flowers,
Colors: a mix of smokey blues, wine and purple, antique teal, midnight blue, full rounded sleeves,
6.CHALK GARDEN
The new attitude is romantic rather than "flirty" or "girly". Think 50's and 60's optimism interpreted for a new era. New pales and brights update classic mid-century pieces. The movement towards lightened color combines retro nostalgia with futuristic hope.
SIlhouettes: rounded or boxy shapes, neat jackets natural-waste trousers, long dresses
Fabrics: dense fabrics, fluffy fabrics, double-face fabrics of wool and silk, cut-and-sew jersey, lace
Prints: tie-dye, swirly abstracts, blurred motifs, scrollwork florals. watercolors, botanical and heavy floral lace and prints.
Colors: solid pale monochrome colors from pastel pink, yellow, lilac, green and grey, beige and a touch of orange.
7. GOOD SPORT
Addressing the impact of activewear, whether worn on city streets or snowy slopes. Functional fabrics, silhouettes that allow movement and vivid color blocking inspire a feeling of vitality. Simple shapes in playful colors recall early modernist aesthetics. Athleisure evolves to encompass all ready-to-wear categories. Streetwear glows up!
SIlhouettes: puffy coats in brights or reflective surfaces, shapes are molded and sculptural.
Fabrics: knits are dense and stretchy, also with extra properties like moisture-wicking, cooling/warming, stain-repellent, shape memory, felts and quilting fabrics, jersey, slick nylons.
Prints: graphic motifs, scribbles, geometrics, shimmering surfaces.
Colors: aqua blue, acid green, fire red, shimmering silver, white, dark wines and greens.
