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VIEW #140

VIEW #140


We have been granted our freedom once more, prompting most designers to present their collections with live catwalk shows for the first time since the global pandemic hit in 2020. We had thought that such a catastrophic event plus, all the other grim issues besieging our world, would have a lasting affect and our business would learn some lessons. Have we changed our ways? We fear not. The giant fashion and textile juggernaut appears to have resumed its course and the shareholders and business bosses are trundling along the well-ploughed furrow bent on fiscal growth. Having this as the primary goal is largely to the detriment of the health of our planet and goes against the the aim of making clothes that are well designed, ethical, sustainable and offer a reason for consumers to invest thoughtfully. There are surely ways to have both, integrating long term environmental and fair social aims into the process and also generating profit. It takes a radical shift however and pressing the reset button takes courage and a long-term perspective. Optimism was certainly a top line message coming through but it’s an empty one if it isn’t backed up by meaningful action. There are designers who are taking braver steps but these stories around sustainability of product and initiatives that are inclusive and truly working towards rewriting fashion rules are drowned out by the power and sheer volume of those who put profit first.


Future matters

The future of making – concepts with a clear human voice

Living in an increasingly complicated world – with uncertainty here to stay – product stories must stand out, be authentic and fit for communication through multiple channels.

The future of design  – postmodern aesthetics

New tools to digitally augment our faces and bodies offers up the freedom of self-expression to turn ourselves into dystopian characters, transcending physical limits of how we should look.

 The future of branding – being yourself

Today, we do not tolerate much of any sort of abuse: think work environment or domestic violence for example. Whenever possible, we take action and stand up for ourselves. Freedom is unapologetically being yourself and telling that to the world.


Review   S/S 2023 & A/W 24/25

Menswear messages – What is the shape of things to come?

This season, the catwalk addresses many issues that are front of mind: our planetary health and sustainability, expanding definitions of menswear in terms of identity, body standards as well as issues around wellbeing and connectivity to our natural world. This is a new age of menswear

Womenswear messages – Key take-outs from S/S 2023 

Optimism was certainly a top line message coming through but it’s an empty one if it isn’t backed up by meaningful action.

Fabric messages – merchandising directions for A/W 23/24

Although a very uncertain retail market (see Publishers View, page 20-21) has added to continuing worries about supply line security, delivery times, inflation and energy costs, manufacturers have sort to bring something modern and unexpected to the table even though trading conditions might demand a more conservative and commercial approach.  


Preview A/W 23/24

Womenswear preview – the changing landscape 

Fashion moves backwards and forwards simultaneously; nostalgia meets high-tech futurism, and craft meets AI. The mix of these different worlds makes it exciting and personal.

Menswear preview – reflecting social movement and shifting standards

Sustainability, self-awareness, and creativity are directing menswear design towards inspiring new times, reflecting social movement and shifting standards around the meaning of masculinity.

Knitwear preview – a lexicon of experimental energy

At first, knitwear seemed to be taking a back seat, but a closer look presented a new lexicon of experimental energy.

Classics are rediscovered with a new story to tell, contrasting this with an ebullient colour confidence that plays freely with bold patterns and textures.

Casual, athleisure and denim preview – uplift, expose, and empower yourself 

Self-expression and self-awareness create radical diversity in our way of dressing, resulting in value-driven statements that uplift, expose, and empower yourself.



‘Upcycling vocabulary’ involves a new mindset new vocabulary

Upcycling embraces a complex system of actions, shared beliefs and committed mind shifts; it is about reinventing the industry and its paradigm to create new visions and new paths towards unprecedented change.